Use the Just Plug Light Block Kit. Apply Masking Paint to interior walls to keep the building from glowing. Press the included Ribbon Putty into interior corners, joints, and along the bottom edges of structures to seal the seams.
Our landscaping system is based on nature's principle of contrasts and highlights. Although many of our colors are close, slight variations occur from batch to batch. These variations help create more realistic scenery and blend easily with other existing colors.
For E-Z Water only use powdered fabric dye.
For Realistic Water and Water Effects use Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, food coloring, or 100% acrylic paint.
While we make some of our products scale specific, most of our terrain and landscape products work with mulitple scales. Our catalog, Web site and product packaging includes scale-specific information when applicable.
We recommend using Foam Tack Glue (ST1444) to adhere Track-Bed to a plywood base.
To attach Track-Bed to a plywood base, use the Contact Gluing Method. Apply adhesive to both contact surfaces and let dry until clear and tacky (maximum working time is one hour). When installing Track-Bed, the glue will bond instantly.
Our Scenic Accents Glue (A198) should not be used outdoors. It is not UV stable.
We do not recommend diluting Scenic Glue. For a spray glue, we recommend Scenic Cement, which is already diluted to the proper ratio.
Scenic Cement is ready to use. Diluting is not required.
The instructions say to spray warm water through following each use for regular maintenance. However, if this is not done, it could be really clogged. Since the Scenic Sprayer™ sprays a very fine mist and you are using it for glue, it is very important to clean it well after each use. We recommend soaking it and then spraying hot water through it. Even better would be to spray some denatured alcohol through it.
Scenic Cement is the proper concentration for attaching our landscape products. We do not recommend diluting it.
Scenic Cement works best when used with porous materials. Let dry approximately 30 minutes between applications.
Yes. Scenic Cement should not be sprayed onto Top Coat Asphalt (ST1453) or Concrete (ST1454), it will leave the surface spotty. If there is landscaping to be done around the road area, cover dried Top Coat with a damp paper towel to absorb any overspray.
To clean hands and figures, we recommend a hand cleaner that contains pumice or an all-purpous hand cleaner / degreaser.
Yes, but we recommend attaching the cork roadbed using the contact gluing method. Apply Foam Tack Glue to the back of the cork roadbed and surface where it will be attached. Let the adhesive dry until clear (maximum working time, 1 hour). Press cork roadbed in place, glue will bond instantly.
N scale Track-Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 4 feet of N scale Track-Bed (ST1475, ST1472, ST1462)
HO scale Track Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 2 feet of HO scale Track-Bed (ST1474, ST1471, ST1461)
O scale Track Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 1 foot of O scale Track-Bed (ST1476, ST1473, ST1463)
Super Sheets (ST1477, ST1478) - 1 oz per Super Sheet. 1 bottle (12 fl oz) will do 12 Super Sheets.
NOTE: Coverage is approximate. Exact coverage depends on thickness of application.
To remove Track-Bed™, soften the Foam Tack Glue™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denature alcohol.
Yes. Soften Foam Tack Glue with warm, soapy water. If the glue is difficult to remove, use denatured alcohol.
Plaster castings can be attached to Modeling Sheets (C1174-C1177) with Foam Tack Glue (ST1444) and the “contact gluing method.” Rough up the surface of the Modeling Sheet with #220-grit sandpaper and wet the back of the plaster casting with water. Apply Foam Tack Glue onto the Modeling Sheet and the back of the casting. Let set until the glue dries (maximum working time is one hour), and then press the surfaces together. The glue will bond instantly.
Foam Tack Glue (ST1444) can be used to attach plywood, Risers and Inclines/Declines, and Track-Bed to pink extruded foam, but it must first be sanded with #120-grit sandpaper. This type of foam has a slick surface that needs to be roughed up so the glue has something to hold on to. Use the contact gluing method to adhere materials to the extruded foam. Spread an even layer of Foam Tack Glue on both contact surfaces. Let the glue dry until clear (maximum working time is one hour) and then press surfaces together. The glue will bond instantly, creating a secure adhesion.
The dry time for Low Temp Foam Glue is approximately 1 minute. When applied it is clear, then dries opaque.
The operating temperature of the Low Temp Foam Glue Gun is 230° F +/-.
We do not recommend using Low Temp Foam Glue on finished products that will be exposed to temperatures exceeding 130° F.
No, it is not offered in this voltage. We suggest purchasing a UK voltage adaptor.
Using HO scale buildings for O scale layouts is not an uncommon practice. It falls under the category of forced perspective and helps create the illusion of depth and distance in a small area.
Built-&-Ready Landmark Structures are made from various types of plastic.
We recommend cyanoacrylate adhesive (CA glue/super glue) for reattaching details. Before gluing, sand off excess glue from glue points with fine-grade sandpaper. Remember, with CA glue less is more. If too much glue is applied, the piece will not set and dry. Use a straight pin to apply a tiny amount of glue to both contact surfaces. Reattach detail and hold until setting begins (approximately 30 seconds).
The wire gauge is 24 AWG. The lights require 16-20VAC.
The car lift on the N, HO and O scale buildings (BR4935, BR5048, BR5849) is sized to scale.
We recommend using a 3/32" drill bit.
The Scenic Details kit Rocky's Tavern (D238) was painted with the following paint colors.
Brick Walls (base color) - Floquil® “Brick”Random Bricks – Polly Scale™ “Antique White” and “Rail Brown”Stone along bottom of walls – Polly Scale “CN Gray” and “Aged Concrete”
Weather the structure with a Weathering Wash. Mix 1-part acrylic paint (Concrete or Aged Concrete), 12-parts rubbing alcohol, 8-parts water and 1 drop liquid dish soap. Using a paintbrush, dab on small amounts of wash until desired look is achieved. Sponge off excess.
Below are the paint colors used to paint the Landmark Structure Building Kit - Sicken Tire Company (PF5184 and PF5204). Additional painting and weathering tips can be found on the back of the instructions booklet.
Building Base Color: Floquil® - Depot Buff
Random Bricks: Polly Scale™ - Earth Brown
Trim above Windows: Polly Scale - Vermont Green
Apply a Weathering Wash on top of dried base color. Using a paintbrush, dab on small amounts of wash (formula follows) until desired look is achieved. Sponge off excess.Formula: Mix 1-part acrylic paint (color suggestion: concrete or aged concrete), 12-parts rubbing alcohol, 8-parts water and 1 drop liquid dish soap.
These are the measurements for Fire Station Nº3.6-21/32” W x 5-7/8” D x 8-3/4” H
Here are the paint colors and techniques used to paint the fire station pictured on the Fire Station No 3 (12400) box.Base Color – Floquil*® Foundation (#110084)Weathering - On top of the base color, a weathering wash was applied. Mix 1-part acrylic paint in a “concrete” color, 12-parts rubbing alcohol, 8-parts water and 1 drop liquid dish soap and apply with a paintbrush. Sponge off excess.Bricks - Paint random bricks with Antique White (#110085) and Rail Brown (#110007)
Doors and Roof - Tuscan Red (#110184)
Floquil is a Testors® registered trademark
Below are the paint colors used to paint the Landmark Structure Building Kit - Sonny's Super Service (PF5183 and PF5203). Additional painting and weathering tips can be found on the back of the instructions booklet.
Building Base Color: Floquil® - Wisconsin Central Gold
Roof: Floquil - Daylight Red
Random Bricks: Polly Scale™ - Earth BrownTrim: Polly Scale - TTX Yellow
Apply a Weathering Wash on top of dried base color and roof. Using a paintbrush, dab on small amounts of wash (formula follows) until desired look is achieved. Sponge off excess.Formula: Mix 1-part acrylic paint (color suggestion: concrete or aged concrete), 12-parts rubbing alcohol, 8-parts water and 1 drop liquid dish soap.
Built-&-Ready Landmark Structures and Building Kits are mainly injection-molded styrene. Some of the building details are molded slick plastic.
The window frames are molded as part of the walls. The windows are clear styrene material, which is glued into place by the modeler. The window shades are not included. The shades were made using different size pieces of black masking tape.
Prior to adhering building pieces together, always wash pieces with warm soapy water to remove any residue. If they still do not adhere, try using a more aggressive plastic cement. Test plastic cement on the back of a building piece. Put a few drops of plastic cement, wait 5-10 seconds, touch with finger, if not sticky and gooey there may be a problem with the cement.
Yes. It is called Constructing DPM Kits (#40000). It is hosted by Master Model Railroader, Miles Hale. He illustrates how to assemble, paint and detail DPM buildings easily with realistic results. Approximately 65 minutes.
If an actual roof is not included in your building kit, the kit will include a styrene sheet to make your roof. This is our preferred material for making a roof.
Poly S™ Easy-Lift-Off will remove paint without harming plastic. It is kind of a slow process but it works.
*Poly S is a Testor Corporation trademark
Yes, we do!
Colors are your choice, but we recommend natural brick colors such as rust, tan or other earth tones. Paint door and window trim the same color as the brick or a contrasting color.
Painting Airbrush or Hand-brush: Flat finish paint Aerosol: Flat finish spray paint
Buildings may not be light-ready, but some modelers are adept at adding lighting. If lighting a building, reduce interior glare by painting interior walls and underside of roof flat earth-tone color.
Weathering Weathering Wash: Using a paintbrush, dab on small amounts of wash (formula follows) until desired look is achieved. Sponge off excess.Formula: Mix 1-part acrylic paint (color suggestion: concrete or aged concrete), 12-parts rubbing alcohol, 8-parts water and 1 drop liquid dish soap.Airbrush: Lightly spray thinned flat black paint (color suggestion: grimy black) to areas where natural discoloration can occur (near windows, chimneys, etc.).Chalk: Rub a dark color of pastel chalk (color suggestion: gray, black, brown, etc.) on sandpaper to create a chalk dust. Using a paintbrush, dab chalk dust where discoloration can occur.
We offer a Roof and Trim Kit (#30190) for HO scale models. It includes Roof Material, Assorted Roof Vents and Hatches, and Parapet Wall Trim.
Decals are not included with the basic DPM Building Kits. We do offer a complete line of Dry Transfer Decals and Model Graphics that include a wide array of letters, numbers and signage to meet your needs.
The back walls appear wider due to draft angles. Draft angles are necessary for removing the walls from the mold. Following the kit instructions, sand beveled edges (draft angles) on walls until flat and fit squarely together.
Yes, you can.
N, HO and O scale Modular System Wall Sections have brick detail.
No. It is not possible to purchase individual wall and roof pieces from specific DPM Building Kits.
To purchase individual wall sections, we recommend the DPM Modular System. It includes a wide variety of interchangeable modular wall sections, which makes it easy to build structures of any type, size, shape or height, to fit anywhere on your layout.
For HO scale, the Roof and Trim Kit (#30190) contains two sheets of Roof Material, Roof Support Material, Brick Parapet Wall Trim, and assorted Roof Vents and Hatches.
For other scales, we recommend using a white styrene sheet to model roofs (O scale 0.04" sheets / N scale 0.02" sheets). Hatches can be modeled by cutting pieces of styrene sheet and gluing them to the roof material.
No, it is not possible to purchase the individual wall pieces of DPM® Building Kits. However the DPM Modular System allows modelers to purchase modular building parts. These interchangeable plastic wall sections make it easy to build structures of any type, size, shape or height, to fit anywhere on your layout. The DPM Roof and Trim Kit (#30190) contains all the styrene plastic parts, including roof material, wall trim strips, assorted roof hatches, vents, inside corner strips and instructions.
No, the roof is not made of the same material as the walls. It is made of a white styrene.
All paints used are Floquil®*.Corner Turret Building Brick - mix the following and apply with an airbrush:- SP Daylight Orange- ATSF Mineral BrownMolding - (brush on) CN GrayRoof of turret - Stainless Steel polyApply morter wash mixture over brick area as follows:1 part - concrete, polly9 parts - alcohol7 parts - water2 drops - dish soapReed BooksBrick - Depot Buff...apply with an airbrushMolding - (brush on) CN GrayApply morter wash mixture (see above)Eriks EmporiumBrick - use morter washMolding - Depot BuffOver windows and below - ConcreteAll three buildings have following also:Roofs - Grimmy BlackAging - use black and brown oil chalks
*Floquil is a Testors Corporation registered trademark.
The most common uses for the Townhouse Flats includes:Attached between a row of buildings. This is a quick and easy way to add buildings with interesting facades along a street.Attached to a pre-printed background to enhance a two-dimensional picture. These Flats add a three-dimensional feel when space is limited.Use to add buildings on a layout with limited space.These Flats are popular with scratch builders. Scratch builders use these Flats with parts leftover from other kits.TIP: Place black paper behind the flats to create the illusion of occupancy.
The footprint of the Mini-Scene kits are less than 3" in diameter.
The Scenic Details kit Tombstones (D201) was painted years ago and we do not have a record of the specific paint colors and techniques used.
From what we can tell by the coloring of the Tombstones, paint colors in white, cream, gray, rust and black were used. Over the base coloring, a drybrush in black was applied to add highlights and enhance the cracks and crevices.
We recommend using the Mini-Scene Paint Set (M125) for painting the Scenic Details kits. It includes paints in 12 different colors. The detailed instructions include information for preparing castings, painting and weathering tips, and suggestions for mixing unique colors.
Use a very fine brush to paint the grave markings.
Here is our method for assembling Scenic Details, Mini-Scenes and Trackside Scenes.Always begin by washing the metal castings in warm, soapy water. Rinse well and let dry. This will remove any remaining mold release agent and allow the glue and paint to adhere better.Glue Metal Castings with fast-setting epoxy or cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue). When using super glue, a good bond depends on surface contact. Super glue is not filler-type glue. Use sparingly, too much glue will make a poor bond. Apply a tiny drop onto one of the parts being glued, then hold parts together for about 10 seconds. For larger Castings, hold parts together and apply a small drop of glue where parts meet. Capillary action allows the glue to seep into the contact area, creating a strong bond.Allow glue to dry completely before moving to the next construction step.If the metal castings were painted prior to assembly, be sure to scrape paint off glue points.
Yes, Foam Putty can be painted. The dried surface of Foam Putty is gritty. For a smooth surface, sand dried Putty with a very fine grade sandpaper (220-400 grit) before painting. Apply two coats of paint, sanding lightly between coats.
Foam Putty (ST1447) works best on expanded polystyrene (EPS). This type of foam is used in the SubTerrain Lightweight Layout System product line.
When used on extruded polystyrene (XPS), the surface of the foam must be sanded with #80-grit sandpaper to give it some tooth, which will allow the Foam Putty to adhere to it. Otherwise, the Foam Putty will not stick to the surface.
Here are some drying time guidelines:Very thin layer - 20 minutes An 1/8 " or thicker - 1 to 2 hours or moreThese drying times will vary depending on air humidity and temperature. If it seems slow to dry, place a fan in the room to help circulate the air.
Foam Putty™ has a 2 1/2-year shelf life and cannot be reconstituted. You can determine the manufacture date of a particular container by looking at the code on the lid. The first number denotes the year (8 = 2008) The next three numbers denote the day of the year (085 is the 85th day of the year = March 25) The expiration date for this code is March 25, 2010.
The Realistic Water is meant to stay flexible and pliable to discourage cracking. Therefore anything that is placed on the Realistic Water surface will leave a mark. Although, the Realistic Water is self-healing and the indentations may lift, the water surface will never be completely hard enough to place items on it without sticking. If indentations do not lift, pool denatured alcohol in the indentation and let it dry naturally. It may take a few applications for the indentation to self-level.
Yes, a portion of dried Realistic Water can be cut out, but it should be done with care.
Measure the area to be cut out, but make the cutout a bit smaller than the size measured. Using a hobby knife, make a clean cut into the Water. It is easier to cut out additional Realistic Water, than repair an area too large for the boat. Pry out the dried Realistic Water, slowly and carefully.
We recommend adhering Dead Fall and Talus with Scenic Glue (S190) prior to pouring Realistic Water.
Also, it is very important to let everything in the water area dry thoroughly before pouring Realistic Water. Any residual moisture will be absorbed by the Realistic Water, which could cause the Water to become cloudy.
You can use Realistic Water (C1211) itself or Scenic Glue (S190) to adhere items in your water area. However, it is very important to apply the adhesive in a very thin layer and allow everything to dry completely before pouring Realistic Water. Residual moisture in the adhesive could be absorbed by the Realistic Water and cause clouding.
No, we recommend not sealing the Realistic Water.
Place a wash cloth with warm, soapy water on the spill and let it soak approximately 30 minutes. The Realistic Water should soften so it can be scraped up with a plastic spatula. If this does not work, soak spill with denatured alcohol. Let set until Realistic Water is soft enough to scrape up.
We have not tested this technique and cannot recommend it. We suggest painting the base of your water area with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or 100% acrylic paint before pouring Realistic Water.
Use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment (C1216-C1223) to tint Realistic Water™. Pour Realistic Water into a disposable cup and mix in coloring agent very slowly to avoid bubbles. If bubbles occur, cover and let set until they disperse (approximately 2 hours). It is advisable to do a small test area to verify desired color.
Modeling a blue-colored water feature with Realistic Water can be done in a variety of ways. Use Water Undercoat Terrain Paint (C1214). It is slate blue paint designed for coloring a water base blue and models a blue water effect. Use 100% acrylic paint in a blue shade.
Use Scene-A-Rama Blue Realistic Water (SP4195). This pre-tinted Realistic Water is ready to use. Applying additional layers enhances the blue effect.You can also tint Realistic Water by mixing in a tiny amount of Water Undercoat, 100% acrylic paint, liquid fabric dye or food coloring. This technique will give your water an opaque look. Pour Realistic Water into a disposable cup and mix in desired amount of color very slowly to avoid bubbles. If bubbles occur, cover and let set until they disperse (approx. 2 hours). Do a small test area and let cure for a minimum of 24 hours to verify desired color.
Only 100% acrylic paint should be used with Realistic Water.
Finding a true 100% acrylic paint can be difficult. Most craft paints, including premium brands, contain vinyl fillers. The vinyl in paint will have an adverse reaction with Realistic Water.
The best way to model a realistic water area is to use dark and light shades of color. The darker the shade, the deeper the water will appear.
Paint entire terrain, including water area, with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment – Earth Undercoat (C1229). In the center of the water area, use Slate Gray (C1219) or Black (C1220) to model deep water. For the shoreline, dilute the darker pigment with 16-parts water or choose a lighter shade, such as Stone Gray (C1218). Be sure to blend the edges where the paint shades meet to avoid harsh transition lines and model realistic changes in depth.
If you are using Realistic Water (C1211) and are not using Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, check with the manufacturer to make sure the paint you are using is 100% acrylic. Most craft paints, including premium brands, contain vinyl fillers. Vinyl in paint could have an adverse reaction with Realistic Water.
We recommend sealing a water feature base with Plaster Cloth (C1191, C1192, C1193, C1203). Apply as instructed on the label, ensuring all holes in the Cloth are filled in before pouring Realistic Water.
Yes, but the sand must be completely dry. Any excess moisture in the sand will be absorbed by the Realistic Water and cause clouding. Prepare water feature base according to Realistic Water instructions. Sprinkle on sand where desired, and then adhere and seal well with Scenic Cement (S191). Apply two coats of Scenic Cement, letting each coat dry throughtly. Place a couple of fans in the room to accelerate dry time. When pouring Realistic Water, the Scenic Cement will cause it to cloud over initially, but will clear during the curing process.
Realistic Water and PVA glue are not compatible. Using the two together could cause the Realistic Water to act adversely, causing cracking and/or fogging.
We recommend using Scenic Glue (S190) to adhere items in a water area. It is also important to let everything dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.
We recommend using our Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or 100% acrylic paint only. Using paint other that what is listed, can cause an adverse reaction with the Realistic Water.
We thoroughly test our products for their intended use, but do not test products other than our own. Since we have not tested a silicone product used with Realistic Water in the manner you are describing, we cannot offer an opinion as to how the Realistic Water will perform.
Yes, Realistic Water can be used over Mold-A-Scene, but you should seal the area according to the Realistic Water instructions.
When using Modeling Sheets (C1174-C1177) as a base for a water feature, we recommend applying a double-layer of Plaster Cloth (C1191-C1193, C1203). Modeling Sheets are made of extruded polystyrene (XPS), which outgasses very badly. If not sealed with Plaster Cloth, the foam will outgas into the Realistic Water (C1211) and cause bubbling.
When applying Plaster Cloth onto the Modeling Sheet, wrap it around the edge and under the Sheet to secure it in place.
Realistic Water will not "attack" the foam, but if it is not prepared and sealed properly, it may release gases into the Realistic Water, causing bubbling and other issues. It is very important to cover an extruded foam base with a few layers of Plaster Cloth, being careful to fill all the holes. Then, paint the base with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment. If using another type of paint verify with the manufacturer that it is 100% acrylic. Let everything in your water area dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.
On the ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat, mark the pond area with a dull pencil. Brush water inside the marked area, then scrape the turf off gently with a craft stick or handle of a paintbrush. Run a continuous bead of Scenic Glue™ (S190) around the perimeter of water area and let dry completely. If desired, paint inside water area with Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment (C1215-C1223). When everything in the water area is completely dry, pour Realistic Water™ according to the label instructions.
We do offer a Ready Grass Water Kit (RG5153) designed for this purpose.
No - Realistic Water was not designed for deep pours. We recommend pouring it no deeper than 1/2-inch.
Be sure to let each layer cure until glass clear (minimum 24-hours) before pouring the next layer.
Realistic Water is not UV stable. With exposure to sunlight, you might see discoloration or buckling.
Depending on your workspace’s humidity level and the depth of your Realistic Water®, it may take longer than 24 hours to completely dry. Never force the curing process by using heat. You can move the process along by placing the layout in an air-conditioned area with less humidity or using a fan in the room to circulate air.
Use a damp, lint-free towel to remove dust.
Depending on how thick Water Effects was applied, it could take quite a few days for it to dry completely clear.
To speed up dry time, place a fan near the diorama to better circulate the air in the room.
There are a couple of options for applying Realistic Water (C1211) down a sloping river.
1. Brush on Realistic Water with a foam brush. Brush very slowly to avoid creating bubbles. You just want to create the illusion of water, so depth is not important. When completely dry, dab on Water Effects to model flowing water.
2. Depending on the size of the layout, elevate the low end of the river so it sets level. Apply Realistic Water in the manner listed on the label instructions.
Use clear plastic, such as styrene or acetate to create a dam. To prevent Realistic Water from leaking when poured onto the diorama, make sure the area where the dam is affixed is clean and flat so the plastic fits flush along all points. Attach the clear plastic to the sides of the diorama (double-stick tape works well). The clear plastic should be higher than the anticipated level of the Realistic Water. Pour Realistic Water following instructions on the bottle. Once the water height has been achieved and the Realistic Water has cured completely, carefully cut the plastic to the level of the water and leave in place.
If you would like to remove the dam, coat the inside of the plastic with petroleum jelly before pouring Water. The jelly acts as a release agent. Make sure Realistic Water is cured fully before removing dam or water could creep. Depending on humidity, it could take up to three weeks to be fully cured.
Another option is to brush on the Realistic Water. You will not have any depth, but our Water is shiny and gives the illusion of depth.
Choose any clear piece of plastic like styrene or acetate to use as the dam. Make sure the area where the dam will be affixed is clean and flat. Adhere the clear plastic to the fascia (double stick tape works well). Make the plastic higher than the anticipated level of the water feature, and pour the Realistic Water™. Once the water height has been achieved and the Realistic Water has cured, carefully cut the plastic to the level of the water and leave in place.
If you would like to remove the dam, coat the inside of the plastic with petroleum jelly before pouring Water. The jelly acts as a release agent. Make sure Realistic Water is cured fully before removing dam or water could creep. Depending on humidity, it could take up to three weeks.
Another option is to brush on the Realistic Water. You will not have any depth, but our Water is shiny and gives the illusion of depth.
Both products are water-soluble. Clean brushes immediately with warm, soapy water.
General cleaning information is listed on the label in the Modeling and Care Information.
No. Neither Realistic Water, E-Z Water or Water Effects were desiged for outdoor use.
No. E-Z Water™ is poured hot, which would result in bubbling and cracking of the Realistic Water™. Realistic Water can be poured over E-Z Water, but it must be completely cured.
E-Z Water™ (C1206) is good for deeper water areas. We recommend it for smaller areas, as it should be applied in one pour to avoid transition lines.
It is possible to pour Realistic Water to an overall depth of more than 1/8". When applying Realistic Water, it must be poured in 1/8" increments. Pour Realistic Water slowly to a depth of 1/8" and let dry until glass clear (minimum 24 hours). Pour additional layers in 1/8" increments, letting each layer cure until glass clear. Pour to a maximum depth of 1/2”.
Use dry pigments or dyes only. Add dye to pre-melted pellets or mix into melted pellets a small amount at a time. When adding dye to melted E-Z Water™, mix in dye very slowly to avoid bubbles.
Use a damp, lint-free towel to remove dust.
E-Z Water™ must be applied in one pour. If applying E-Z Water in multiple pours, transition lines are unavoidable.
You can make any size waterfall you want with Water Effects™ (C1212). To view a step-by-step video, visit the following link: http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/MakeWaterfall
Water Effects is moldable, holds its shape and dries clear. To model moving water, apply on top of dried Realistic Water™ (C1211) or E-Z Water (C1206) with a paintbrush or craft stick.To model a waterfall, squeeze onto freezer paper or non-stick pan in desired shape and length (add 1/2” to length for attaching to layout). Let dry until clear, then peel off surface carefully and attach using Water Effects as an adhesive. Dry time varies due to heat and humidity.
Mix a small amount of Earth Colors® Liquid Pigment (C1216-C1223) or water-soluble paint into Water Effects™ before applying.
Water Effects will remain pliable. Anything set on top of it will stick to it and leave indentations.
Yes, you can thin out Water Effects™ with a little water. Make sure to test a small area first to be sure you have the correct consistency for the application intended.
An 8 fluid ounce bottle of Water Effects™ covers approximately 627 square inches when applied 3/32" thick. Actual coverage depends on application.
The 24-hour dry time of Water Effects is a guideline only. Actual dry time depends on a number of factors. Very thick applications could take a couple of weeks to clear completely. Environmental conditions like heat and humidity could also extend dry time. To speed up dry time, place a fan in the room to circulate the air.
The Realistic Water is having an adverse reaction with the enamel paint. When using Realistic Water, we recommend Earth Colors Liquid Pigment, Earth Undercoat or 100% acrylic paint only to color a water area.
Mix a tiny amount of fine, iridescent glitter with Snow Flake Snow™ (SN140) until the desired look is achieved, keeping in mind that a little goes a long way. Spray an already modeled snow base with Scenic Cement™ and apply the mixture while glue is wet.
You can also mix glitter with Water Effects™ (C1212) before modeling icicles.
There are two techniques you can use.
1. Mix equal parts of white acrylic paint with Soft Flake Snow™
2. Spread Flex Paste™ with a craft stick, then sprinkle with Soft Flake snow while wet.
This method makes very realistic ice blocks. Adjust size accordingly.
1. Apply a square layer of Water Effects onto a non-stick surface, such as freezer paper or a non-stick pan. Let dry until clear. 2. Add additional layers as needed, letting each layer cure fully. 3. If necessary, trim with hobby knife after blocks are cured and clear.
Prepare your water areas as usual and pour Realistic Water. While it is still wet, lightly sprinkle Soft Flake Snow on top. This will create a glazed, frosted look to simulate a frozen, icy surface.
No, our coal does not contain metal or magnetic substances of any kind.
No, our Ballast is not real stone.
If there are tunnels on the layout, ballast track approximately 6” into the tunnels on both ends before enclosing them. Ballast the rest of the track after coloring rock castings with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment (C1215-C1223) and applying Earth Colors Liquid Pigment-Earth Undercoat (C1229) to the terrain. Add landscape materials to the layout after ballasting is completed.
We recommend using our Earth Colors Liquid Pigments (C1216-C1223, C1228, C1229) to dye Ballast. In a disposable plastic cup, add Ballast to desired color of pigment and mix thoroughly with a craft stick or paintbrush. If a lighter color is desired, dilute pigment with water. Let set until preferred color is achieved. Spread out Ballast on newspaper or paper towels and let dry.
The approximate dimensions are as follows:
Fine: 0.0103” – 0.033"
Medium: 0.033” – 0.049”
Coarse: 0.05” – 0.082”
N scale = Fine Grade
HO scale = Medium Grade
O scale = Coarse Grade
For HO scale, it is most common to use the medium grade Ballast.
We would recommend using Medium Grade.
We suggest Coarse Grade Ballast with O gauge track.
We recommend you use coarse Ballast for O gauge track. One bag (18 cu. in.) will cover 6 feet of track. One shaker (50 cu. in.) will cover 16 feet of track. This coverage is an approximation that may vary due to the desired thickness and uniformity of application.
Divide the total footage of track by the number of feet covered by one package.
N Scale Fine Ballast18 cu in = 20 feet50 cu in = 52 feetHO scale Medium Ballast18 cu in = 12 feet50 cu in = 32 feet
Scenic Cement™ (S191) contains a wetting agent, so it is not necessary to apply a separate agent prior to applying adhesive. Added water and alcohol will dilute the adhesive.
For a strong bond, shake bottle of Scenic Cement well and mist adhesive over Ballast, wetting the surface. Then, saturate Ballast with Scenic Cement using an eyedropper or the Scenic Sprayer™ (S192). Clean rails before use.
Ballast is placed along the railroad track to model actual ballast that holds track in place.
Talus is used to model rock debris under rock outcroppings, rocky hillsides or embankments.
If you are just adding landscape materials, such as Ballast, there is no need to scrape the turf off prior to application.
If you are laying track and adding Ballast, we recommend scraping the turf off before adhering the track.
You should have no problem adhering Ballast to your Track-Bed™ with this tested method.1. Pour Ballast over track. Brush from rails and tops of ties.
2. Mist with Scenic Cement™ (S191) to wet the surface, and then saturate Ballast using an eyedropper or Scenic Sprayer™ (S192).
3. Clean rails before use.
To remove Ballast from the track, soften the Scenic Cement™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denatured alcohol.
Both are correct. The Scenic Cement that is included with the Grand Valley Layout Kit (ST1483) is a concentrated formula and does not contain the wetting agent that regular Scenic Cement (S191) does. This is why the Grand Valley instructions state to mist Ballast with "wet water" before applying the diluted Scenic Cement.
This is possible, but requires designing a new track plan and reconfiguring the layout of the Risers and Inclines/Declines. The track plan for the Grand Valley Layout Kit was designed using Atlas Code 83 Snap-Track.
We do have some suggestions:Method #1 - Install and wire the track for "block " control. This requires a seperate power pack or transformer for each train and wiring a number of switches to determine which transformer has control of a train on a particular block of track. Block control is not expensive, nor is it difficult to install.Method #2 - Use a digital command control (DCC) system. DCC requires a more expensive electronics package, with corresponding decoders in your model train engines. A DCC system can be designed to control switches, lights, sounds and other operations.For expert, more detailed advice, you can research these topics via books, railroad magazines and Web sites. Local model railroading clubs are also a great resource.
Two Square Module Kit Stands (ST4792) are sufficient to support the Grand Valley Layout Kit (ST1483).
The Grand Valley Layout Kit includes instructions and all the terrain and landscape materials needed to model the layout as shown. Common household items, adhesive and speciality foam tools are also required to complete the layout.
AdhesivesWe recommend using Low Temp Foam Glue Gun and Sticks (ST1445, ST1446) or Foam Tack Glue (ST1444). Foam Tack Glue is high-tack white glue and works well as a contact cement. Low Temp Foam Glue bonds instantly and allows for quicker installation. Both adhesives work equally well and are designed to be used with SubTerrain Lightweight Layout System foam components. Foam NailsFoam Nails (ST1432) are recommended for pinning Inclines and Risers in place to determine placement. They are also used to pin Track-Bed and track in place while Foam Tack Glue dries. If using Foam Tack Glue to build the entire terrain, Foam Nails are also recommended to hold Risers and Inclines in place while adhesive dries. Foam Cutting ToolsThe Foam Knife (ST1433) or Hot Wire Foam Cutter (ST1435) will be needed to cut foam components. Both are ideal for cutting foam, but the Hot Wire Foam Cutter is quicker and easier to use and makes clean, accurate cuts. Household ItemsCommon household items such as, newspaper, masking tape and a spray bottle are also needed to complete the layout kit.
NOTE: Train and vehicles are not included.
We do not have a layout kit in O scale.
For O scale, we recommend the Mod-U-Rail System. Mod-U-Rail uses our SubTerrain Lightweight Layout System and allows you to design, build and landscape a layout that is customized to your specific space and scale requirements.
You can also design and build a layout using the SubTerrain Lightweight System.
For O scale, we recommend the Mod-U-Rail System. Mod-U-Rail allows you to design, build and landscape a layout that is customized to specific space and scale requirements.
The River Pass is designed as an HO scale layout kit. Although you can modify the kit, experience is required to alter the track plan to fit the larger S scale. In addition, the Portals and Culverts included in the kit are too small. You may want to consider our Mod-U-Rail® System. Mod-U-Rail works for virtually any scale. Design any layout configuration with individual straight, square and/or corner modules. Visit woodlandscenics.com to see this system. The landscape materials included in each kit will work with any scale. In addition, with every purchase of any five modules, you receive a free Straight Module Kit.
In order to run multiple trains on a layout, you will need to purchase special electronics, such as Block Control or Digital Command Control (DCC). Providing information on specific technologies for running multiple trains is outside our area of expertise. We recommend contacting the manufacturer of the track. They will be able to provide you with more accurate information.
The River Pass Layout Kit will use approximately three packages of Low Temp Glue Sticks.
Plywood or particle board would work well. We recommend 3/4" medium-density fiberboard (MDF). Be sure the material you use is sturdy and provides a work area large enough to accommodate the Scenic Ridge Layout.
To build the Scenic Ridge layout as it is pictured in the catalog and on the Website, you will need to purchase the following items (additional common household modeling supplies are also required).-Scenic Ridge Layout Kit (ST1482)-Town & Factory Building Set (S1485) -Scenic Ridge Atlas Track Pack (ST1182)
Yes, but you will need to contact Kato directly for their version of the Scenic Ridge track plan. Kato has a link for their track plan on their US website. The Kato track plan will need to be used in place of our track plan that is printed on the foam base.
The track in N Scale Scenic Ridge® Track Pack is an Atlas Code 80.
Mod-U-Rail Modules can be connected to the Scenic Ridge Layout. To connect the two together, we recommend using the Mod-U-Rail Connector Plate Set.
A modified track plan that connects Scenic Ridge to the Mod-U-Rail Modules will need to be configured. We do not have track plans, but there are many available resources. We suggest searching the Internet or purchasing a model railroad track plan book.
Below is the list of products shown on the Mountain Valley Scenery Kit (S928) box. A few of the vehicles are not available.
Woodland Station (PF5187)
Country Cottage (PF5186)Cutting's Scissor Co. (10300)
The Other Corner Cafe (11500)
Front Street Building (12000)
1st National Bank (11800)
Goodfellows Hall (10800)Laube's Linen Mill (10600)
Street and Traffic Lights (D248)Backhoe (D237)
Dump Truck (D247)
Hall and Duke (AS5521)
To add additional vehicles, figures, structures or landscape materials, see our complete line of products at woodlandscenics.com.
We recommend using Scenic Cement™ (S191) rather than Scenic Glue™ because the Ballast will lay more evenly and be better secured.
Apply Ballast onto track and brush from rails and top of ties. Mist adhesive over Ballast to wet the surface, and then saturate it for a strong bond using an eyedropper or the Scenic Sprayer™ (S192). Clean rails before use.
We recommend using Foam Tack Glue (ST1444). Spread a thin, even layer of Foam Tack Glue on top of Track-Bed. Place pieces of track on glue and pin in place with Foam Nails (ST1432) to secure while drying.
We recommend using Foam Tack Glue (ST1444) to attach Track-Bed to a layout.
There are different application methods depending on base material.
Plaster surfaces: Spread a thin, even layer of Foam Tack Glue where Track-Bed will be installed. Lay Track-Bed and pin in place with Foam Nails (ST1432) to secure while drying. Work in two to three-foot sections. This application method also allows the modeler to make adjustments while installing Track-Bed.
A permanent application method for plaster and other surfaces: Use the Contact Gluing Method. Apply Foam Tack Glue to both contact surfaces. Let dry until clear and tacky (maximum working time is 1 hour), and then press Track-Bed in place. Installation of Track-Bed has to be precise, because glue will bond instantly. Place Track-Bed in manageable sections.
For both application methods, we recommend sanding the top and bottom surface of Track-Bed with 120-grit sandpaper before installation.
Yes, Track-Bed is solvent resistant.
We do not manufacture plastic screws and have never tested their usage. This is how we recommend you attach track to your Track-Bed.We recommend using Foam Tack Glue (ST1444). Sand surface of Track-Bed with 120-grit sandpaper, then spread a thin layer of glue over the Track-Bed surface and install track. Pin in place with Foam Nails (ST1432) while drying.
Track-Bed® absorbs the noise and vibration of train operations, so you can enjoy the true "clickety-clack" sound. Track-Bed costs less, does not require pre-soaking, and is easy to apply. It will not dry out, crack and crumble like cork. Since Track-Bed is compatible and aligns easily with cork, you can update your cork bed at any time.
It really is the users preference, both are easy to use. Generally speaking, Track-Bed Rolls are easier to use when modeling a larger layout with a lot of straightaways and standard curves. Track-Bed Strips are easier to use when modeling a smaller layout with a lot of sharp curves and turnouts.
For a strong bond, rough-up the bottom of Track-Bed™ with 80-grit sandpaper and attach using the contact method, working in small, manageable sections.
Contact Method - Apply Foam Tack Glue™ to both surfaces, allow to set for approximately 20 minutes, but no longer than 1 hour, until tacky, then apply.
Cut out a section of Riser where the under table switches will be located. Use 1/4" piece of Foam Sheet, Masonite or plywood to bridge the gap. Notch each end of the Riser to accomodate thickness of material. Material should be level with Riser. Glue into place and mount the switch.
Separate Track-Bed into two sections along the score line. Draw a centerline along the curve. Using the centerline as a guide, press Track-Bed sections in place separately, butting them snugly side-by-side.
We recommend attaching Track-Bed with Foam Tack Glue (ST1444).
The Track-Bed is a dark gray.
Yes, our Track-Bed™ works great on any type layout with any kind of track of a standard width. For larger scales, consider using Track-Bed Sheets.
When modeling in O scale, Inclines and Risers need to be placed side-by-side to double their width.
The minimum turn radius for HO scale Track-Bed Strips (ST1471, ST1461) and Rolls (ST1474) is 15".
The minimum turn radius for O scale Track-Bed is O27. (O27 is O scale track with 27-inch center-to-center turn.)
Lay out Track-Bed™ in one piece. Accommodate tight curves by separating the Track-Bed into two narrow strips along the slit that runs lengthwise. Lay the two pieces seperately, butting them snuggly in the middle. Do this by first drawing a center line for your track. Lay each half strip of Track-Bed on either side along this center line.
We do not offer G scale Track-Bed at this time. We recommend using HO/O scale Track-Bed Sheets (ST1470) or Super Sheets (ST1477). They can be cut to size with a hobby knife or the Foam Knife (ST1433).
If desired, a beveled edge can be cut along the sides.
No, do not cut the Track-Bed with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. This may emit toxic fumes.
We recommend covering Inclines and Risers with Plaster Cloth (C1203) before laying roadbed.
Instead of using cork, we recommend Track-Bed. It provides quiet and smooth train operation, and helps absorb sound irregularities from your layout. It requires no pre-soaking, remains flexible and it won’t dry out and become brittle as cork does.
Use Foam Tack Glue (ST1444) to adhere Track-Bed to layout base and track to Track-Bed.
Risers and Inclines are 2 1/2" wide. You will need to install 2 sets side-by-side for an N or HO scale double track.
No, you do not need to use Risers under Inclines, but using both allows you to increase the elevation of the track throughout the layout to create lower surrounding areas easily, such as creek beds and ravines. For further information and instruction about using Risers and Inclines, watch the how-to videos on our website and consider purchasing the SubTerrain® Manual (ST1402).
Incline Sets are a packaged set of foam inclines that create a pre-determined 2%, 3% or 4% incline within a specific distance. Incline Starters contain from 6 to 8 two-foot sections of 2%, 3% or 4% foam inclines, each beginning at 0%. Starters are used in combination with sets and risers to simplify the construction of even the most complex layouts.
Both adhesives work equally well. Foam Tack Glue is high tack white glue and works well as a contact cement. Low Temp Foam Glue bonds instantly and works well for a quicker installation.
Yes, they will work for O gauge just fine. However, you will need to place them side-by-side to accommodate the width.
Our SubTerrain® Lightweight Layout System is made of a high-density foam material that can withstand a lot of weight. It's designed for this application.
For O scale double track, Risers ST1406-ST1409, ST1414) and Inclines/Declines (ST1410-ST1413, ST1415-ST1416) should be arranged 3 wide (side-by-side).
The NMRA has established clearance specifications. We recommend you reference their website for clearance requirements.
The tightest turn Risers provide is 9”.
We do not make 3.5 inch risers. To accomplish this, install our 2 ", 1 " and 1/2 " risers on top of one another to create that height. Each package contains 4 each and each piece is 2.5 " wide x 24 " long. The quantities to purchase will depend on the planned length of your track.
To accomodate S gauge, double the Risers width by placing them side-by-side.
A standard powered locomotive will not have an issue making it up the grades we offer (2%, 3% and 4%). The issue with a train having trouble making it up a grade depends upon how many units of rolling stock it is pulling. The more powerful the engine, the more rolling stock it will be able to pull. As there are so many variations in locomotives and rolling stock, this is an at-home trial and error test.
Coverage approximation depends on individual usage. A dense application will reduce the total area covered and light application will extend it. Generally, one bag contains enough Fine Turf to cover approximately 18 cubic inches. One Fine Turf Shaker will cover approximately 50 cubic inches.
We have a natural plant product called Forest Canopy and it is perfect for what you are attempting to model. It can be modified easily to a height of 1 inch and is available in four colors. One box covers approximately 2 square feet.
Available Colors: Light Green (F1660), Medium Green (F1661), Dark Green (F1662) and Autumn Mix (F1663)
Our Lichen is specially treated to help keep it from drying out. However, if you are located in an area that is very low in humidity, it may become dry.
To restore Lichen to its natural state, mist with water.
Lichen can be painted with acrylic spray paint, but it needs to be prepared prior to painting. Spread a single layer of Lichen on a piece of newspaper and let it dry out for a few days. Then, spray with isopropyl alcohol and let dry thoroughly. When the alcohol is dry, it is ready to paint. The acrylic spray paint will seal the Lichen and help keep it soft and fresh looking.
This depends on what type of surface you want to adhere the foliage to. We have created three-dimensional trees by gluing foliage to foam board backgrounds. The Clump-Foliage™ must be broken into manageable size pieces (approximately the size of our Bushes). We use Foam Tack Glue™ to adhere the foliage, piece by piece. Dry flat and let the glue dry thoroughly.
The drying time of Hob-e-Tac® varies due to environmental conditions and thickness of application. Typically, dry time is between 20-45 minutes. It is possible the 10 minutes of dry time was not sufficient. Hob-e-Tac must dry clear before foliage is applied or it will not stick. If it is still white, it is not dry.
Recommendation for making trees. Apply Hob-e-Tac to all branches. Avoid trunk area where foliage does not grow naturally. Wait for adhesive to become clear and tacky. Break Clump-Foliage into manageable size pieces and pinch firmly onto branches.
Here is our method for modeling trees with Clump-Foliage, which provides a very thick, realistic looking tree.1. Bend and twist Tree Armatures into realistic, three-dimensional shapes. A popular technique is to have the branches resemble deer antlers. This shape helps hold more foliage on Armatures. 2. Apply Hob-e-Tac (S195) liberally to all sides of branches, avoiding trunk area where foliage does not grow naturally. Wait for adhesive to become clear and tacky (very important). Dry time varies due to environmental conditions, 20-45+ minutes. 3. Break Clump-Foliage into manageable size pieces that are proprotional to the size of the Tree Armatures you are using. Dip the Tree Armature deep into the bag of Clump-Foliage, remove carefully and shake gently to remove excess. Dip into bag of foliage again, if desired. Then, pinch Clump-Foliage firmly on branches to secure. 4. Overspray Clump-Foliage with Scenic Cement (S192) to help seal in place.
We recommed using Conifer Green Clump-Foliage (FC185). We also recommend using Pine Tree Armatures.2-1/2" to 4" (TR1124)4" to 6" (TR1125)
We do not have anything specific to 1/35 scale. Below are Hedgerows and their dimensions.Hedgerow (TR3581) 1” w x 2-3/8” t x 7-3/4” l (2.54 cm x 6.03 cm x 19.6 cm)Hedgerow (TR3582) 1” w x 4” t x 8-1/4” l (2.54 cm x 10.1 cm x 20.9 cm)Hedgerow Scene Tree Kits (TK24) Contains 18 trees and 6 bushes, 24”-30” (60.9 cm x 76.2 cm)
You could also model your own hedgerow scene with landscape materials, such as Realistic Tree Kits (TR1101-TR1103, TR1111, TR1112), Fine-Leaf Foliage (F1130-F1135), Clump-Foliage (FC181-FC186, FC682-FC684) or Forest Canopy (F1660-F1663).
We have a variety of yellow foliage and turf for making trees and adding highlights to create unique colors.
Foliage for Making Trees-Early Fall Foliage (F55) includes yellow and a yellow mix. -Yellow Flowering Foliage (F176) is yellow turf on a green fiber backing to model the transition from summer to fall.-Fall Mix Clump-Foliage (FC186) includes yellow and three other fall colors that can be mixed with the yellow to create unique shades.
Highlighting Turf-Yellow Grass Coarse Turf (T61)
-Fall Yellow Coarse Turf (T1353) -Yellow Grass Fine Turf (T43) Use the products individually and in combination to create a wide variety of unique yellow trees.
Our turf products work for any scale. Our trees are available in a variety of sizes, the tallest measuring 9 inches.
Woodland Classics - Deciduous: 8"-9" Cool Shade (TR3521) and Waters Edge (TR3539)
Woodland Classics - Conifer: 7"-8" Standing Timber
Ready Made Realistic Trees - Deciduous: 8"-9" Medium Green (TR1519)
Ready Made Realistic Trees - Conifer: 7"-8" Conifer Green (TR1563)
Attach trees to layout using Scenic Glue™ (S190) or Hob-e-Tac® (S195). Poke a small hole, apply a drop of glue over hole and insert tree's base pin. Hold until setting begins. Add additional adhesive around the base of the tree for extra support. The optional base can also be used. Attach with Scenic Glue.
Woodland Scenics products are not designed to be exposed to the outdoor elements.
We recommend using Clump Foliage (FC181-FC186) as tree foliage. Break into desired sized pieces and attach to tree armatures with Hob-e-Tac (S195) as instructed. Spray foliage with Scenic Cement (S191) to secure in place.
There is an infinite number of ways to bend armature branches, as there are an infinite number of tree shapes in nature. A popular shape can be achieved by bending and twisting branches to resemble deer antlers.
A 25.2 cu in (57.7 cu cm) bag of Bushes (FC144-FC149) will make approximately 15 trees. The exact number of trees will depend on the amount of foliage used and the size of the Tree Armature. Smaller Armatures will net more trees and larger Armatures will net fewer.
This is difficult to calculate with Foliage Clusters, as the size of foliage is created by the customer. We recommend breaking foliage into pieces approximately 1/8"-5/16" for 2"-4" Tree Armatures. With these size pieces, one bag of Foliage Clusters will foliage approximately 40 trees. Actual coverage depends on how thick the foliage is applied.
Yes, our Tree Armatures can be painted. The armature should be twisted and formed into its tree shape before it is painted to avoid cracking the paint.
A flat-finish enamel paint is best. If you do not use a flat-finish paint, spray the armature with a flat-finish clear coat after it is painted to lessen the shine.
We have a variety of products that can be used to model flowers. As an idea, use Flowering Foliage, which is available in Yellow (F176) and Purple (F177) to model flowering fields, bushes, trees, etc. Or, sprinkle Flowers (T48, includes Red, Yellow, White and Orange) or Pollen (T4645-T4649, Yellow, Orange, Red, Purple, Pink) on Foliage, Poly Fiber, Field Grass or any of our turf products.
The best way to adhere Fruit is to spray Scenic Cement™ onto foliage, then let it set until tacky (nearly dry). Sprinkle on Fruit and overspray with a VERY fine mist of Scenic Cement. Do not get the fruit too wet or the color may run.
To adhere Flowers, spray Scenic Cement on landscape, sprinkle Flowers on wet adhesive and spray again to seal in place.
In order for Static Grass to stand up, it needs static. The most common application is to use a Static Grass Applicator. Currently, we do not offer an applicator but your hobby shop should be able to help you.
There are a variety of products you can use to model tumbleweeds.
Fine-Leaf Foliage - Dead Foliage (F1334) or Light Green (F1132) and Forest Canopy-Light Green (F1660) will model very realistic tumbleweeds.
Poly Fiber (FP178) can also be used. Tear off a small piece of Poly Fiber and stretch until very thin and lacy. Roll a piece of stretched fiber between your palms to give it shape.
Cut Stumps (S31) and Broken Stumps (S32) in N scale (1:160 inches) are approximately 3 scale feet wide (7/32" / 5.5 mm base width) and 2-1/2 scale feet tall (3/16" / 4.7 mm).
The Project Base & Backdrop is sold separately from the Diorama Kits.
The water feature in the video was modeled using Water Undercoat and Realistic Water, which are included in the Ripplin’ Water Kit (SP4122). The products are also sold individually.Water Undercoat (C1214) Realistic Water (C1211)
There are three different thicknesses of weights included with these sets. 1/16 oz (1.77 g) = 0.48" (12 mm) thick3/16 oz (5.33 g) = 0.18" (4.5 mm) thick1/2 oz (14.1 g) = 0.06" (1.5 mm) thick
The mix ratio of Lightweight Hydrocal is 5 parts Hydrocal to 2 parts water (1 1/4 cups Hydrocal to 1/2 cup water).
Mix 295 mL of Lightweight Hydrocal with 118 mL of water.
Different issues can affect the setting and drying time of Lightweight Hydrocal®.
The amount of water used is critical. Use only the amount indicated in the instructions or the Hydrocal will take much longer to cure and set. If too much water is used, it may never set up completely.
It is very important to shake the carton of Lightweight Hydrocal upside down for 30 seconds to mix contents thoroughly before measuring.
Humidity is another factor. Higher humidity can extend dry time to as long as a few days. Placing a fan in the room to circulate air can speed up drying time.
Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
Rock castings can be made from the following Woodland Scenics plaster products: Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster (C1201), Super Strength Plaster (C1199), Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180), and Carving Plaster (C1198).
Fill the Rock Mold with water, and then pour the water into a measuring cup. Measure the amount of water and divide by two. This is the amount of water you will add to the Plaster. Times the water amount by 2.5 to find the amount of Plaster you will need.
Example: Rock Mold holds 4 fluid ounces of water. 4 fluid ounces divided by 2 = 2 fluid ounces. 2 fluid ounces times 2.5 = 5 fluid ounces. Add 5 fluid ounces of Plaster to 2 fluid ounces of water. Prepare Plaster per instructions on carton.
Some natural shading should occur when painting your Lightweight Hydrocal surface with Liquid Pigments. However, if the surface is not absorbing pigment and remains white, those areas probably have been contaminated with glue or another substance. An acrylic paint can be used instead without the need of priming the surface. Keep in mind that using paint will not create as realistic of a look as the pigments.
When stored properly, Hydrocal has a very long shelf life. Put Lightweight Hydrocal® in a sealed plastic bag and place the sealed bag in a tightly sealed, non-breakable container. It is important to keep moisture away from the product.Hydrocal® is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
We recommend using our Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment on Lightweight Hydrocal®* castings. You will want to be sure that there is no glue or other residue on the casting before applying the Pigments, because color may not adhere or may become blotchy.
*Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
Yes. Rock castings colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments (C1215-C1223) should be sprayed with Scenic Cement (S191). This will seal the pigments onto the castings and reduce fading overtime.
You should not wash any Woodland Scenics plaster product down the drain. This includes Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180), Carving Plaster (C1198), Super Strength Plaster (C1199), Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster (C1201), Mold-A-Scene Plaster(C1202), and Smooth-It (ST1452). Plaster residue that remains after applying Plaster Cloth (CC1203, C1191-C1193) should also be discarded in the trash.
We suggest transferring the entire contents to a heavy-duty plastic trash bag. Ingredients can settle, so it's important to tumble in all directions to mix contents evenly.
The drying time of Flex Paste varies with thickness of application and environment. A thin layer will dry in approximately 30-40 minutes. Flex Paste should be applied no thicker than 1/16. Humid weather will extend the drying time. To speed up drying time, place a fan in the room
Fill holes in Plaster Cloth when it is being applied. Dip a strip of Plaster Cloth in cold water and apply to surface bumpy side up. With wet fingers, smooth and spread the plaster bumps until holes in Plaster Cloth are filled in. Work quickly, because plaster sets quickly.
Another way you can apply Plaster Cloth is to lay managable sizes of dry Plaster Cloth strips on the project. Use a spray bottle to mist with water and use your fingers to smooth out the plaster filling in all the holes.
These areas can be touched up by adding an additional layer of Plaster Cloth. Apply bumpy side up, and spread the plaster bumps with wet fingers to fill the holes in the cloth. Lightweight Hydrocal can also be used to fill in the holes. Prepare Hydrocal per package instructions, then spread a thin, smooth layer over the problem areas.
There are a few techniques to ensure the holes in the cloth are sealed. -Plaster Cloth should be applied bumpy-side up. -When applying, dip a strip of Plaster Cloth in water, apply to your project, and then spread the plaster bumps with wet fingers. This will help smooth out all the plaster. -Apply a double layer of Plaster Cloth by overlapping each previous layer by 50%.After application if there are areas on the Plaster Cloth that need to be sealed, brush on a thin layer of prepared Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster (C1203), Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) or Super Stength Plaster (C1199).
We recommend using cold water with Plaster Cloth. Using warm water will cause the plaster to set up quickly, which will shorten the working time.
We recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment, Earth Undercoat (C1229) or Green Undercoat (C1228). They yield realistic results and are formulated to blend naturally with our Turf products.
Yes. SubTerrain foam products are made from unique, high-density foam and will not crumble or fall apart.
We wanted a foam product that was lightweight and easy to use. You can cut SubTerrain quickly and neatly, it will not crumble or fall apart, and working with SubTerrain high-density foam rquires no previous modeling experience. When cut with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter, it does not emit toxic fumes.
Yes, they can be carved with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter, Foam Knife or other hobby knife.
Tunnel Portals can be installed at various times throughout the layout modeling process. We recommend installing them after Plaster Cloth (C1203, C1191-C1193) or Shaper Sheet (C1178, C1179)/Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) has been applied. Tunnel Portals can also be installed throughout the landscaping process, making it easy to add them to an existing layout. Cut into the terrrain (if additonal room is needed for the portal) and install per package instructions.
Tunnels can be made in a variety of ways.Ready Landforms are an easy way to add a tunnel. They are preformed, landscaped and ready to place on a layout. Available in HO and N scales and straight (C1310, C1315) or curved (C1311, C1316) designs.
Self-supporting Shaper Sheet (C1178, C1179) is another easy way to add a tunnel. Form into tunnel shape and arrange over track. Cover in Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) and add landscape materials. For added realism, paint underside of Shaper Sheet to resemble blasted rock. Use 1/4" Foam Sheets (ST1422) or 1/4" Modeling Sheets (C1176) to make tunnel walls and roof. Use No-News Paper (C1188) or newspaper to add paper wads around the tunnel foundation to model terrain, and add a double layer of Plaster Cloth (C1203, C1191-C1193) to form a hard shell.Use the Tunnel Liner Form (C1250) to mold tunnel sections from Lightweight Hydrocal (C1201), Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) or Super Strength Plaster (C1199). Connect sections together with Plaster Cloth (C1203, C1191, C1192, C1193) to form desired length of tunnel.
The photo of the C1254 Single Track Timber Portal, shown on the website is a good example of a realistic Tunnel Portal. We used Burnt Umber (C1222) for the main color and then applied a wash using a thin solution of Black (C1220). You could also use Stone Gray (C1218) as an accent.
The Tunnel Liner Form is reuseable. If it is well cared for, it can be used to make several castings. Be sure to clean it thoroughly before and after each use.
For a realistic timber appearance, we recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment - Burnt Umber (C1222) and Black (C1220). Dilute 1-part Burnt Umber with 8-parts water and brush over the entire Portal as a base color. Over the Burnt Umber, apply a black color-wash. Dilute 1-part Black with a approximately 32-parts water. Brush and dab on the black wash, letting it seep into all the crevices. Adjust amount of water for desired look.
For the box photo, we brushed on a less diluted black wash above the tunnel opening to model the build-up of train smoke.
Use Ultra-Lite Oil (HL661) for locomotive bushings and other moving parts on locomotives and rolling stock, with the exception of gears. Lubricate gears with a grease like White Grease (HL657).
No. Hob-E-Lube products do not contain silicone or petroleum.
Hob-E-Lube Ultra-Lite Oil (HL661) is not a true conductor. It promotes conductivity by dissipating moisture and creating a clean contact surface. We do not have a lube that is true conductor.
Depending on how the graphite is applied, Hob-E-Lube Dry Graphite Lubricant with Molybdenum (P358) should last throughout an entire derby event.
Some derby events do not allow additional applications of graphite. But if your local race rules allow, reapply a small amount of graphite between each elimination run for optimum performance.
Suggestions for Applying GraphiteApply graphite on the inside of wheel hubs, one at a time. Spin wheels to distribute graphite evenly. Then, apply additional graphite between the wheel and axle on the outside of each wheel. Spin to distribute evenly.
The best lubricant to use for HO scale box car wheels is Hob-E-Lube Ultra-Lite Oil (HL653).
The Hob-Bit products are made out of high quality brass and are not heat treated
The Hob-Bits Wrenches (H885-H888) are nickel-plated steel. They are for use with any of the Hob-Bits Screws (H801-H816, H821-H836, H841-H856, H861-H876). Match the size of the wrench to the size screw you are using. The Wrench works similarly to a socket wrench. Position the wrench over the head of the screw and turn.
You will need our #H886 size 0-80 wrench. A 1/8" nut driver will be too big.
Use Woodland Scenics Mat Adhesive (RG5161) to attach ReadyGrass Vinyl Mats to flat surfaces. The 7 fluid ounce bottle covers approx. 5000 square inches.
If attaching ReadyGrass to a porous surface, sand surface with 100-grit sandpaper, then prime with acrylic paint to seal prior to applying Adhesive. Let paint dry completely.
For a repositioning bond, apply Adhesive to surface only.
If wanting a permanent bond, apply Adhesive to surface and back of ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat.
How to Apply - Brush or roll a generous, even layer of Mat Adhesive. Let dry until clear and tacky (max. working time, 2 hours). Do not force dry with heat. Align mat and smooth from center to edges with a rolling device. A rolling pin works well.
The thickness of the vinyl mat alone is 7.5 mil.
The vinyl mat and the turf together are approximately 1/32" (0.03") or 0.8 mm thick.
The 7 fl oz bottle of Mat Adhesive covers 34.7 sq ft (5,000 sq in).
When attaching a ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat to a porous surface using Mat Adhesive, you must first sand the surface with 100-grit sandpaper, then prime with acrylic paint to seal. Let paint dry completely before applying Adhesive.
We recommend using flat finish paint for the best adhesion. If semi-gloss or gloss acrylic paint is used, it must be sanded with fine-grade sandpaper before adhering the ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat to rough up the slick surface.
Yes. Mat Adhesive (RG5161) can be applied onto enamel paint. Before applying Mat Adhesive, sand dried paint lightly with 120-grit sandpaper.
For this application, we suggest using Shaper Sheet (C1178, C1179) and Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180). Shaper Sheet is a revolutionary material that can be shaped and reshaped to form terrain with any level of detail. When covered in Shaper Sheet Plaster, it becomes a very durable surface that will support heavy game play. Cover Shaper Sheet Plaster in landscape materials to model a realistic gaming terrain.
To apply Mat Adhesive (RG5161), a foam brush or roller will work well.
The ReadyGrass Mat was not designed to get wet. However, if the mat is prepped properly, it should be okay after a short sprint in a light rain. Spray the ReadyGrass Mat with a few light layers of Scenic Cement (S191), but do not saturate. Let each layer dry completely before applying the next. NOTE: This will make the ReadyGrass Mat a bit darker.
Desert Sand ReadyGrass Vinyl Mats are made with a special, very fine blend of Talus.
The closest match is Fine Grade Talus in Buff (C1270).
To achieve the same fine consistency, place Talus in a plastic bag and seal. On a safe surface, tap Talus with a hammer until desired consistency is achieved.
Suggested track plans for N and HO are included in the instructions, however Mod-U-Rail is compatible for scales Z through O.
We recommend Foam Tack Glue (ST1444) for attaching track.
Mod-U-Rail kits are not pre-built. They are kits containing terrain and landscape materials needed to complete each modular section. Track, train and other details are sold separately.
For the 9 x 9 layout, you need the following:
(2) ST4801 - Straight Kit(2) ST4790 - Straight Stand(5) ST4802 - Corner Kit(5) ST4791 - Corner Stand(1) ST4780 - Connector Set
The extra items are terrain and landscape materials needed to complete the suggested layout. Exact placement depends on your layout design. The included instructions cover how to use most of the materials, and our website has loads of how-to video demonstrations. Also, the individual products contain instructions explaining how to use them.
Yes, the Mod-U-Rail System works with bottom-mounted accessories. Cut a notch in the Risers and install a hard board to support the mechanism. Cut a hole in the base for installing and servicing the switch machine and complete the installation according to manufacturer's instructions.
Yes, Flex-track can be used with no problem.
Cut out a section of Riser where the under table switch will be located. Use 1/4" piece of Foam Sheet, Masonite or plywood to bridge the gap. Notch each end of the Riser to accommodate the thickness of the material. The material should be level with the Riser. Glue into place and mount the switch according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Yes, connector plates made of composite wood and are cutable.
The opening width, or length of the wire from prong to prong is 4 1/2" (11.4 cm) wide. The depth from the prong down to the handle, is 6" (15.2 cm). When using the optional straight rod, the tool cuts a path 3 1/2" w x 6" d (8.89 cm x 15.2 cm). Use this option to cut in tight places and for faster cuts.
No. The Hot Wire Foam Cutter is designed to use the Replacement Wire. The special nichrome wire retains an even temperature, which is necessary for consistent cutting of our foam products.
We recommend using the Hot Wire Foam Cutter (ST1435 with Risers (ST1406-ST1409, ST1414), Inclines/Declines (ST1410-ST1413, ST1415-ST1416), Profile Boards (ST1419), Foam Sheets (ST1422-ST1427), Modeling Sheets (ST1174-ST1177), Road Riser (ST1181), and Support Panels (ST1172, C1173).Using the Hot Wire Foam Cutter on products other than what is listed is not recommend. Toxic fumes may be omitted.
If the bows and wire are not installed properly, the cutter will not heat. We suggest reinstalling the bows and wire according to the following instructions.
Install Bows - Insert one of the bows into one of the guide holes on the handle. Press the bow down until the spring engages. The bend in the bow and the top of the guide should be level. Hold the bow in place and tighten the thumb screw. Repeat with other bow. When both bows are installed they resemble an American football goalpost. Make sure thumbscrews are not overly tightened.
Install Wire - Start with a 6-inch piece of wire. Install wire with or without the collars. When installed, wire must be taut between bows.
Without Collars - Wrap ends of wire several times around grooves in bows. Then, wrap the wire back around itself to secure.
Collars - Thread one end of the wire through the small, center hole in a bow collar and extend it out the top hole, approximately 1-inch. Twist the wire tightly several times around long wire section and secure close to edge of collar. Thread the other end of the wire through center hole in opposite collar and secure in same manner. There should only be a single piece of wire between the bows. Make sure the wire is taut between the bows. To help get the wire tight, pull bows in slightly while securing the wire. To tighten loose wire, twist a collar slightly.
Using the Cutter - Plug the unit in. Make sure the transformer is secure in the handle and it is plugged into a working outlet.
IMPORTANT - The yellow button must be pushed firmly forward to heat the wire while cutting. The wire heats only when the yellow button is fully engaged. As a safety feature, the wire cools as soon as button is released, even the slightest amount. Make sure to maintain steady pressure. To ensure the bows and wire maintain the proper connection, make slow and steady cuts. Release yellow button when cut is complete.
We typically suggest Yellow Ocher, Burnt Umber and Black for generic rock coloring, however different geographic locations have rocks of different color so choose the pigments that best represent the area you are modeling.
The Leopard Spot technique is our favorite method for coloring rocks. It is a simple technique that yields realistic results. Start with the suggested dilution ratios. If darker colors are desired, add additional pigment to washes.
-Dilute 2 different secondary colors, 1-part pigment to 16-parts water. Color suggestions: Yellow Ocher (C1223) and Burnt Umber (C1222).
-Dilute a third pigment for a dominate color, 1-part pigment to 32-parts water. Color suggestion: Black (C1220).
Start with the lightest secondary rock color. Using a foam brush, dab first color randomly over 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Dab the next secondary color randomly over a different 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Leave approximately 1/3 of the rock white.
Brush and dab the dominate Black Wash over the entire rock face. The Black Wash pulls the colors together. When dry, seal rock colors with Scenic Cement (S191) and let dry. Then, brush on a less diluted Black Wash (1:16) to accentuate rock detail. Spray again with Scenic Cement to seal.
Color recommendation: Use Burnt Umber (C1222) and Yellow Ocher (C1223) as secondary colors. Then, use Raw Umber (C1221) as the dominant color. You may want to consider purchasing the Earth Colors Kit (C1215). It includes all eight Earth Colors Liquid Pigments and detailed instructions for coloring rocks. This would allow you to experiment with different colors to achieve your desired look.
To lighten the black wash, flood-spray the casting with hot saltwater (mix 1 tsp [5 mL] salt in 6 fl oz [177 mL] hot water). Dab with paper towels to remove liquid. Repeat, if desired. Base colors will remain on the rock, but the coloring will be much lighter.
If you would like to start over completely, use Earth Colors Liquid Pigment in White (C1216) to paint the casting back to white. Dilute the White Pigment 1:1 with water.
Yes, the black wash can be lightened, as long as it has not been sealed already with Scenic Cement. Flood-spray the casting with hot salt water (1 tsp salt in six fl oz of water). Wait one minute, and spray again if needed. Let dry completely before applying lighter coat of black wash.When satisified with the coloring on your castings, spray with Scenic Cement (S191) to seal the colors. Let dry. If desired, highlight the rocks' cracks and crevices by applying a more concentrated Black Wash over the entire rock. Then, spray again with Scenic Cement.
An old toothbrush, warm soapy water and a bit of light scrubbing will take dried hydrocal right off.
A 1/2 gallon carton of Lightweight Hydrocal® will yield approximately 14 medium-sized rocks.
The actual number of rock castings will depend on which Rock Mold is used and how full it is filled. For example, Rock Mold Strata (C1239) or Classic (C1236) and a 1/2 gallon of Lightweight Hydrocal will yield 8-10 full-pour rocks.
Hydrocal® is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
Rock Molds are made of a non-latex polymer.
Our Rock Molds do not contain latex.
We do not recommend Mold-A-Scene for casting rocks. There would be a lack of detail in the casted rock, and results would not be satisfactory. We recommend using Lightweight Hydrocal (C1201) for casting rocks and wet water as a release agent.
Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers. Dry time is approximately 30 minutes, but can vary due to environmental conditions. When first applied, it is opaque and off-white in color. Latex Rubber is dry when it has turned pale yellow and is slightly translucent.
For durable, long-lasting molds, apply at least three coats of Latex Rubber, placing gauze strips between each layer. Clean paintbrush between coats with warm, soapy water.
Yes, Earth Colors Liquid Pigments can be applied with an airbrush. Diluting the pigments is done primarily to adjust the shade of the color. Leave it full concentrate for the darkest color and add water to achieve lighter results.
No. The Roto Wheel Cleaners (TT4560, TT4561) were designed to be used with standard N and HO scale trains.
Yes. N Scale Dust Monkeys (TT4570) will work with HOn3 rolling stock and track.
In our testing, we have not encountered any problems using the Roto Wheel Clearner to clean locomotives that have a traction tire.
The On30 locomotives we have tested with the HO Roto Wheel Cleaner (TT4561) have been compatible. When using the Roto Wheel Cleaner, the maximum length locomotive it can handle is 12” (30.4 cm) and rolling stock 10-1/4” (26 cm).
Yes. Marklin HO 3-rail track is compatible with the Tidy Track Wheel and Maintenance System. However, the third rail (center rail) will have to be cleaned seperately/manually, because it sets below the height of the outer rails and the cleaning pads cannot reach it.
We suggest using the Rail Pal (TT4575) to clean the third rail.
The Rail Tracker Cleaning Kit (TT4550) can be used to clean Test Track. Clean in the same manner as regular track, per product instructions.
The Tidy Track Pads are not overly abrasive. In truth, mildly abrasive products are needed to maintain a proper functioning track. Tidy Track Wheel and Rail Maintenance System provides all the tools needed for corrective and preventive maintenance. The Rescue and Maintenance Pads have a fine grit embedded into a rubber-like material. These pads are actually good for the track. The Maintenance Pads will dress the track and help prevent corrosion and build-up.
Profile Boards (ST1419) fit together in a tongue and groove configuration. They are ½” (12 mm) at the thinnest point and 1” (25 mm) at the thickest.
Latex paint can be used to paint Profile Boards (ST1419). We suggest lightly sanding boards with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any rough areas before painting.
The 2" and 4" measurements are the width of the individual, folded panels.
We do not sell these as separate items. You can make your own by cutting Profile Boards to desired size.
Our Foam Sheets (ST1422-ST1427) are expanded polystyrene. Our Modeling Sheets (C1174-C1177) are extruded polystyrene.
You will have an easier time if you curl the the Foam Sheet (ST1422) before trying to install it. You can do this by gently flexing the Foam Sheet back and forth or flattening it slightly with a rolling pin. This will allow the Foam Sheet to flex more easily. We also have 1/4" Modeling Sheets (C1176). These sheets are very flexible and bend easily along a curve.Insert the Foam Nails at a slight angle through the Foam Sheet and into the plywood.
Yes, by all means. This is a method to make the needed custom numbers and letters that are not available!
We recommend using a brush-on, water-based clear gloss.
The 45 degrees refers to the design of the font. The angle degree at the corners of the lettering is 45°.
The best method we have found for removing dry transfer decals is to press a piece of clear tape onto the decal, rub with a burnisher or dull pencil, and then peel off the tape. The Dry Transfer should come off fairly easily, but it may take a couple of applications to remove it all. If there are spots of decal remaining, soak a cotton swab in denatured or isopropyl alcohol and rub over the decal. The remainder will come off easily.
The larger is 3/64" and the smaller is 1/32".
A – 13 J – 5 S - 14B – 5 K – 5 T - 17C – 5 L – 7 U - 8D – 5 M – 5 V - 4E – 21 N -15 W - 4F – 5 O – 12 X - 4G – 5 P – 5 Y - 4H – 8 Q – 3 Z - 3 I – 18 R – 14
Research the era and the geographic area you are modeling for the correct standards.
Modern lane lines are generally 4-inches wide. This includes road, highway, and parking lot lines in white (solid and dashed) and yellow (single, double, solid and dashed). N Scale: 4” = 0.025 / Decal: 1/32”
HO Scale: 4” = 0.046 / Decal: 3/64”O Scale: Place two 3/64" decals side-by-side
Our Model Graphics – Stripes (MG759-MG764) are approximately 7-1/2 inches in length. The number of packages needed will depend on your chosen scale and length of road.
Here are the size and quantity per package.
Size # of pcs
0.01 12 pcs
1/64 11 pcs
0.22 12 pcs
1/32 8 pcs
3/64 8 pcs
To make road stripping easy, we recommend using Road Striping Pens in White (C1291) or Yellow (C1292) and the Flexi Edge (C1294) road striping guide. When the Road Striping Pens are applied onto Top Coat Asphalt (ST1453) or Concrete (ST1454), mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover (C1293).
Cut the decal into individual stripes. Trace a very light line where road stripes are desired. When transferring the decal, it is important to burnish slowly and carefully. Use the wide tip of a burnisher. Start at one end of the road, place the decal on the start of the line and burnish the back of the decal bit-by-bit, following the line. Continue until stripes are completed. To make road stripping easier, we recommend using Road Striping Pens in White (C1291) or Yellow (C1292) and the Flexi Edge (C1294) road striping guide. When the Road Striping Pens are applied onto Top Coat Asphalt (ST1453) or Concrete (ST1454), mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover (C1293).
To make road striping easy, we suggest using the Flexi Edge (C1294) flexible road ruler and Road Striping Pens in White (C1291) and Yellow (C1292). When applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, road striping mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover (C1293).
While this is not our area of expertise, we have done a fair amount of research on the subject. We have found modern lane lines are generally four inches wide. This includes road, highway, and parking lot lines in white (solid and dashed) and yellow (single, double, solid and dashed). There are federal guidelines, but road striping can vary from state to state. We recommend contacting the department of transportation for regulations in your area. When modeling a road, it is our philosophy that road striping is matter of perspective. When modeling true to scale, some features can end up looking out of proportion to each other. You should model what looks best to you.
You will need to make this determination for yourself after completing your road striping. If you feel the stripes are too thin for O scale, apply a second strip side-by-side to the first to double the thickness. Make sure to let your striping dry completely before applying the second set of stripes.
The Road Striping Pens (C1291, C1292) will mark on top of dried Smooth-It, but markings will be permanent and unable to be removed by the Road Stripe Remover (C1293).
Old and new sections of Smooth-It (ST1452) can be joined together seamlessly. Spray the original section with water and when pouring the new section use the Spreader to blend the two sections together. When dry, sand lightly with #220-grit sandpaper.
For inclines up to 30 degrees (maximum recommended degree), it will need to have a thicker consistency. Mix 2-1/2 parts Smooth-It to 1 part cold water.
Smooth-It should be applied onto porous surfaces, such as Plaster Cloth (C1203, C1191-C1193), Shaper Sheet™ Plaster (C1180), Foam Sheets (ST1422-ST1427) or plywood. You can use Smooth-It to create a roadway, parking lot or other similar surface. We recommend modeling large projects in small sections. Use Paving Tape (ST1455) to outline the perimeter and then section off the interior into smaller segments. This will make the project easier to handle.
Yes, you can use Smooth-It™ directly on Homosote. Prior to applying the Smooth-It, sand the surface with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Do not use shellack.
Yes. You may use Earth Colors Liquid Pigment (C1215-C1223, C1228, C1229) or any water-based paint or dye to color Smooth-It (ST1452). Mix the colorant into the water before adding Smooth-It.
When adding colorant, the color of the plaster will not be as vivid as when painted. It will have a muted, chalky appearance. We suggest doing a small test area to ensure the color of the dried product meets your needs.
Yes, you can slow down the setting time of the Smooth-It™. This is accomplished by using cold water in the mixture.
For this type of application, we recommend using Foam Putty (ST1447) or Flex Paste (C1205) as an alternative. Sand smooth and brush on at least two coats Top Coat Asphalt (ST1453) or Concrete (ST1454).
Smooth-It should be applied onto porous surfaces, so when applying it to construction grade foam, certain preparations must first be made. If there is a clear plastic backing material on the foam, remove it. Sand the surface of the foam with #100-grit sandpaper to give it some tooth, so the Smooth-It has something to stick to. Do not seal the foam prior to adding Smooth-It.
Yes. After the Smooth-It (ST1452) is set, you should remove the Paving Tape (ST1544).
Paving Tape will only stick to Smooth-It if it is dry. If the road feels cool to the touch, it needs additional drying time. Try placing fans in the area to speed up the process.
Paving Tape (ST1455) is a little tall for a true N scale curb. However, if a curb was made to actual N scale specifications, it would be nearly undetectable and extremely difficult to make. Practicality and forced perspective are guiding factors in modeling.
Unless they are exposed to direct sunlight for many hours each day, the colors will not fade to any noticeable degree.
Top Coat Concrete (ST1454) is sand color and models a realistic, weathered-concrete look. Top Coat does not have an added texture.
Yes. Water-based acrylic paint can be mixed into Top Coat Asphalt (ST1453) and Concrete (ST1454).
Scenic Cement overspray on Top Coat will be noticeable. If there is landscaping to be done around a paved area, cover dried Top Coat with damp paper towels to absorb any overspray.
N SCALETWO-LANE CITY STREET - 1 15/16"TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 1 1/2"HIGHWAY LANE - 7/8" to 1 3/8"SIDEWALK - 1/4"
HO SCALETWO-LANE CITY STREET – 4 1/8”TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 3 9/16"HIGHWAY LANE - 1 5/8" to 2 1/2"SIDEWALK - 1/2"
O SCALETWO-LANE CITY STREET – 6 1/2”TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 5"HIGHWAY LANE - 2 1/4" to 4 1/2"SIDEWALK - 1”
There are many different ways to model a dirt road. Here are a couple of ideas.Paint your road with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments - Earth Undercoat (C1229). When dry, spray with Scenic Cement (S191) and sprinkle on Earth Fine Turf (T42). This will add the texture of dirt. When desired amount of Turf is applied, spray with a final light coat of Scenic Cement to seal in place. Use Gravel - Buff Fine (C1288). The included Accent Powder will add just the right touch of realistic coloring.
To model a crowned road, we recommend using our Road System. Use strips of Paving Tape (ST1455) to make a form for the road. Instead of using single-layer strips of Paving Tape as noted in the instructions, stack two strips on top of each to make the road twice as thick. Prepare Smooth-It (ST1452) per package instructions and pour into the form. Remove the Paving Tape after approximately 30 minutes, and then let the Smooth-It finish drying completely. It is dry when it is no longer cool to the touch. Sand and shape dried Smooth-It with 220-grit sandpaper into desired crowned road formation.
To add gutters, create forms with Paving Tape after the crowned road is completed.
To add storm drains, use a hobby knife to gently score desired pattern into dried Smooth-It. Work slowly to avoid cracking. Use pieces of styrene to create storm drain grates and manhole covers.
Paint paved areas with Top Coat Asphalt (ST1453) or Concrete (ST1454).
To correct a worn tip, trim away worn material with scissors or a hobby knife.
The tip of the pen does not need to be depressed with a lot of pressure, the paint dispenses easily. When needed, depress the tip on a piece of scrap cardboard to increase the flow of paint. Also, take care to avoid snagging the pen tip on ties, spikes, and edges of the rails. This will help increase the life of the tip.
Yes. Dried paint on top of the rails will interfere with electrical conductivity and should be removed before operating your train.
Yes. We recommend diluting 1-part Earth Undercoat (C1229) with 2-parts water. You can add more or less water to reach your desired terrain coloring.
Earth Colors Liquid Pigment (C1215-C1223) colors like stain. They are easily absorbed into porous surfaces, such as Plaster Cloth and plaster-based products.
Any of our plaster-based products can be used on Shaper Sheet (C1178, C1179) to create a hard shell, but deliver varying degrees of hardness. Reference the plaster chart on our website for details.Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster (C1201)Carving Plaster (C1198)Super Strength Plaster (C1199)Mold-A-Scene Plaster (C1202)
We recommend using Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) because it has an extended working time and the hardness factor. The extended time allows the modeler more time to apply plaster. Typical plaster products have about 5 minutes of working time, while Shaper Sheet Plaster has approximately 20 minutes.
Yes. Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) provides excellent detail when used as a casting plaster.
When dry, Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) is sandable.
Low Temp Foam Glue (ST1445, ST1446) can be used, but it may pull away from the foil when forming it into terrain shapes. Another method is to form the sheets individually, aligning them side-by-side. Fold the connecting edges over approximately 1” so the fiber mesh edges face each other. Connect the sheets together with Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180).
Shaper Sheet (C1178, C1179) is a terrain modeling material. It is not intended to be used as a level surface for running trains. To elevate track and create smooth elevation transitions, we recommend using Risers (ST1406-ST1409, ST1414) and Inclines/Declines (ST1410-ST1413, ST1415, ST1416) as a track foundation. Cover Risers and Inclines/Declines with Plaster Cloth (C1191-C1193, C1203), and then form terrain contours with Shaper Sheet and attach it up against the edge of the Risers and Inclines/Declines.
Before applying Latex Rubber to the item you want to make a casting of, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the object.Before pouring plaster into the Latex Rubber mold, spray the mold with wet water (mix 1-2 drops liquid dish soap in 8 fl oz water).
It is best to not thin the Latex Rubber. Adding water could change the make-up of the product. It is thick by design to adhere to vertical surfaces. Brushes should be cleaned immediately with warm, soapy water, then rinsed well. If the Latex Rubber dries on the brush, there is no way to remove it.
You may be applying it too thick. Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers, letting each layer dry completely for approximately 30 minutes (dry time varies due to environmental conditions). When applied, Latex Rubber is opaque and off-white in color. It is pale yellow and slightly translucent when dry.
Latex Rubber (C1204) is prevulcanized, it does not require heat to cure.
The dimensions are 2-3/8" (6 cm) L x 3/4" (19 mm) W x 3/4" (19 mm) H.
Various plastics are used in all cases.
All Structures and Building Kits can be glued with model glue or solvent-based plastic cement, except for O Scale DPM Building Kits, which must be glued with CA glue. Some details will require CA glue as well.
AutoScenes and Scenic Accents can be glued with Scenic Accent Glue (A198).
Most of our AutoScenes® and Scenic Accents® are designed to fit into a 1940s - 1950s era.
We recommend using cyanoacrylate adhesive (CA glue/super glue) to reattach broken pieces on a Scenic Accent. Use only a very small amount, a little goes a long way. Apply with a toothpick and press together. Hold until setting begins.
The adult figures are approximately 7/8" (22 mm) tall and child figures range between 5/8"-3/4" (16 mm-19 mm).
The canoes measure approximately 2" in length and 1/2" in width.
There are 6 figures in Scenic Accents O scale Road Crew (A2761). They range from 31mm-39mm.
The boat measures 7/8" wide by 3 1/8" long. The dock is 1" wide by 3" long.
The canoes measure 3/4" wide by 3 3/4" long.
The canoe dimensions in item A2200 are 1 1/8” long x ¼” wide.
The dock dimensions in item A2203 are 7/8” long x 5/16” wide. The boat dimensions including the motor are 7/8” long x ¼” wide.
HO scale (1:87) would be very close to 25mm.
The figures in the Economy Sets are randomly selected. In the Assorted Figure Set, the figures represent common positions such as, walking, sitting and standing.
No, our G scale Scenic Accents are scaled 1:22.
We have created grade crossing signals with Red Flashing LED Nano Lights (JP5755). Run and glue the LED wire alongside the pole and crossing bar. Drill a hole through the bar and light fixture large enough for the Nano Light to fit through and super glue it in place. Camouflage the wire by painting it the same color as the pole and crossing bar.There are many different types of grade crossing signals. We cannot guarantee this technique will work for your particular signal.
We recommend using 16-20VAC to light the Just Plug Light Hubs (JP5700, JP5701). If a lower voltage is used, the light will not shine as brightly. We do not recommend going over 20VAC.
Yes, DC power can be used. A good range is 16-22VDC (22-volt DC should not be exceeded). When using DC power, Just Plug LED lights will be a little dimmer than with AC power.
Light Hub (JP5700, JP5701) ports are designed as current sources, not voltage sources. Each Light Hub port provides up to 30mA of current.
Each of the four LIGHT Ports on a Light Hub (JP5700, JP5701) can supply a maximum current of 30 milliamps (mA).
No. The flashing speed of a Nano LED Flashing Lights is not adjustable, only the brightness.
Up to 50 Extension Cables can be connected together without compromising light brightness.
You can extend the length of your Just Plug Power Supply (JP5770) cable with an Extension Cable (JP5761).
The Auxiliary Switch (JP5725) controls the ports that are to the right of the CTRL Port on Expansion Hubs (JP5702) and Light Hubs (JP5700, JP5701).
To connect the Just Plug Lighting System to DCC, use a Connecting Cable (JP5760).
Plug one end of the Connecting Cable into the CTRL Port on a Light Hub (JP5700, JP5701) or Expansion Hub (JP5702). The other end of the Connecting Cable will be connected to a DCC relay unit (per DCC manufacturer instructions).
The rated output for the Power Supply (JP5770) is 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine the total number of Just Plug LED Lights the Power Supply can support, add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. The milliamps are listed on the light packages. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply. If 1000mA is exceeded, the Power Supply's non-replaceable thermal fuse will be overloaded.
The Just Plug Power Supply (JP5770) has a rated output of 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine how many Expansion Hubs (JP5702) the Power Supply can support, you will need to add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. Milliamps are listed on each light package. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply.
No. You will be able to turn lights ON/Off remotely with DCC, but the dimmer controls on the Light Hubs will need to be adjusted manually.
Just Plug Nano LED Lights (JP5743-JP5749, JP5754, JP5755) measure 0.5 mm x 1 mm.
The approximate dimensions of the LED Stick-On Lights are 5/16” wide x 21/64” long x 1/8" thick (8 mm x 8.3 mm x 3 mm).
The Just Plug Lighting System is made to be used with Just Plug Stick-On and Nano LEDs only.
The Just Plug system is designed for one Just Plug LED light per Light Hub port. We cannot guarantee the results if using it differently.
Major diameter is the measurement of the space from the outermost point of the thread on one side of the screw to the outermost point of the thread on the opposite side of the screw. Minor diameter is the measurement of the space between the innermost points of the threads.
In the White Light Kit (BA5790), the white lights are similar in color to the Just Plug LED - Cool White (JP5741, JP5748). In the White/Amber Light Kit (BA5791), the white lights are similar in color to Cool White (JP5741, JP5748) and the amber lights are similar in color to Yellow (JP5742, JP5744).
Warm white has a yellow undertone, commonly attributed to an incandescent bulb and cool white has a blue undertone, commonly attributed to a fluorescent bulb.
The lights included with the Lights & Hub Set (JP5700) are Warm White LED Stick-On Lights (JP5740).
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G = 1:24
O = 1:48
S = 1:64
OO = 1:76.2
HO = 1:87
N = 1:160
Z = 1:220
Gauge refers to the distance between the rails on railroad track.
Our landscape products work for any scale.
NMRA standards note minimum and maximum values, instead of limits, for Prototype HO (1:87) track.
Measurements (inside rail to inside rail)
Minimum 16.48 mm
Maximum 16.84 mm
There are no NMRA standards for ties.
If you are not concerned about NMRA standards, below are general measurements.
Approximately 16.5 mm from inside rail to inside rail.
Real World (HO scale)
Length: 102" (1.17" / 29.6 mm)
Width: 9" (0.103" / 2.6 mm)
Height: 7" (0.08" / 2 mm)
Center-to-Center Spacing: 19.5"-21" (0.22"-0.24" / 5.6 mm-6.1) mm
The "n" stands for narrow. On30 describes the modeling of narrow gauge railways, using O scale trains with narrow tracks that run on HO gauge track. For your On30, you can use SubTerrain Risers (ST1406-ST1409, ST1414) and Track-Bed (ST1461, ST1474).
Cut a notch in the Risers and install a hard board to support the mechanism. Cut a hole in the base for installing and servicing the switch machine. Complete the installation according to the manufacturer's instructions.
You can add a switchback (or extreme incline) to your layout following the same techniques used to model a SubTerrain track area. Start by constructing an incline base with a 1 " Foam Sheet (ST1424). Construct the support with 1/2 " Foam Sheet (ST1423) and add 1/2 " incline pieces (ST1410) for the track. Fill the contours with newspaper wads, cover with Plaster Cloth (C1203) and apply terrain products as usual.
Yes. Risers and Inclines/Declines can be used with O gauge Lionel FasTrack. They will need to be placed side-by-side so they are wide enough to support the track.
We recommend covering Risers and Inclines/Declines with Plaster Cloth prior to laying track. Attach the FasTrack to Plaster Cloth with Foam Tack Glue (ST1444).
The best way to model sawdust is to use real sawdust. To create sawdust, sand a piece of soft wood, such as pine, with 80-grit sandpaper (coarse grade). Attach the sawdust with Scenic Cement (S191). You can control the scale by using more or less coarse grade of sandpaper.
We mainly use halogen lighting when we take product photos in our studio. Generally, the model is set-up and one halogen light represents the angle of the sun. One or more diffused lights are used to fill in the rest of the model. A three-point lighting technique, often used in filming video, works well to highlight foliage in the background.
All of our videos are available on YouTube for you to embed on your website. Just copy and paste the code from each of the videos that you want and paste the code on to your pages.
Woodland Scenics Videos - http://www.youtube.com/user/ModelSceneryExpert
PineCar Videos - http://www.youtube.com/user/DerbyCarExpert
Scene-A-Rama Videos - http://www.youtube.com/user/schoolprojectguru
Place fine grade Talus in a plastic bag and seal it. On a safe surface, tap Talus with a hammer until desired consistency is achieved. It can also be colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment to achieve the desired color of sand.