A waterfall can be made with the Waterfall Diorama Kit or the Ripplin' Water Accents Kit. Go to the following link to view a demonstration. http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/FlashVideos/MakeWaterFall.html
Prepare your water areas as usual and pour Realistic Water. While it is still wet, lightly sprinkle Soft Flake Snow on top. This will create a glazed, frosted look to simulate a frozen, icy surface.
We recommend using our Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or other type of water-soluble paint, food coloring or dye. Pour Realistic Water slowly into a disposable cup and add the color. Mix gently to lessen the bubbles in the water. To be sure a color is what you are looking for, it is best to test the color 24 hours prior to the actual application. Use Paint or Earth colors for an opaque effect or use food coloring for a transparent effect.
It is best to sculpt and shape Water Effects within 15-20 minutes. Longer than 20 minutes may cause Water Effects to "skin over" and become difficult to work with.
No, we recommend not sealing the top of the cured Realistic Water. Realistic Water is designed to stay flexible and pliable, and an imprint will form from something set on cured Realistic Water. To be on the safe side, be careful to avoid touching the surface.
Realistic Water - You will want to first try a lint free damp towel to remove any dust. If this does not do adequate cleaning, mist with denatured alcohol. This will soften up the water and revitalize it.
EZ Water - Again, try using a lint free damp towel to remove dust. For better cleaning, or to remove particles, you can reheat the water with a heat tool (RG5162), keeping in mind that a hair dryer will not get hot enough.
Choose any clear piece of plastic like styrene or acetate to use as the dam. Make sure the area where the dam will be affixed is clean and flat. Glue the clear plastic to the fascia. (Double stick tape works well) Make the plastic higher than the anticipated level of the water feature, and pour the Realistic Water. Once the water height has been achieved and the Realistic Water has cured, carefully cut the plastic to the level of the water and leave in place.
More than likely this issue is occurring because of the PVA glue that you used to glue the sand to the pool bottom may have caused the cloudiness and shrinkage. Granted with our products there will be some shrinkage (but more so will happen shortly after, not a month later). It is recommended that you use our Scenic Cement (S191) or Scenic Glue (S190) to adhere anything under our water products. All that we can recommend is to wait and hopefully it will clear up. If that does not work, you may need to take out the water and remove the material with the PVA glue VERY WELL, completely re-seal it, then re-pour the water.
Our "New and Improved" formula of Realistic Water can be poured at more than 1/8 inch layers, but it will take some time to cure...especially if you are in a humid, wet climate. When using the Realistic Water, it is best to build the area up, so only TWO 1/8" pours are needed. Or you can use the EZ Water pellets on the bottom and then when that is COMPLETELY cured, you can pour Realistic Water over it. Do NOT do it the other way around with the EZ water on top, or you will have issues. Also, do not put Realistic Water and EZ water products next to one another because you will see a distinguished line.
Depending on your workspace’s humidity level and the depth of your Realistic Water, it may take longer than 24 hours to completely dry. Never force the curing process by using heat. The process can be moved along by placing the layout in an airconditioned area with less humidity or by putting a fan in the room to circulate air.
We did some testing and found that this would work just fine, but it will take several pours to achieve the desired result. The molds you use will need to be silicone based. Pour the Realistic Water with no more than 1/8" deep applications, let cure and repeat until you have the desired depth. This can be a slow process but will work well.
